2019 Ceritas, Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Peter Martin Ray Vineyard is outrageously great. Dark, virile and imposing, the 2019 offers up a heady mix of dark fruit, leather, incense, sage, violet and crushed autumn leaves. This savory, old-school Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet is fabulous. I also tasted the 2015, which is aging at a glacial pace. Although John Raytek is known for his Chardonnays and Pinots, his Cabernets are every bit as compelling.

Fully destemmed and allowed to warm up a bit before going into a concrete tank for fermentation with ambient yeasts and no additional temperature control. A combination of pumpovers and punchdowns are used with a goal of only moderate extraction. Spends between 30 and 36 months in 500-litre used French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Smells of dusty road, dried herbs, carob, a hint of cherry, plum skin and incense. Intensely bright flavours of cherry and plum skin are wrapped in a fleecy blanket of tannins, as dried and fresh herbs linger in the finish with a touch of salinity. Mouth-watering, with excellent acidity. Complex and delicious. (AY)