2010 Verite, Le Desir, Sonoma County

Verite's 2010 Le Desir is the richest and most powerful of these wines. Cedar, tobacco, mocha and sweet spices all blossom in the glass. Blackberry jam, cassis, smoke, licorice and grilled herbs open up over time. Firm, structured and huge on the palate, the Desir is the most intense and opulent of the 2010s. It is likely to require the most time to come around. The blend is 50% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. I tasted a wide range of wines with Pierre Seillan during my most recent visit to Verite. The 2010s were still in tank awaiting imminent bottling. For that reason, the wines were a little closed down relative to how they showed last year. The 2011 and 2010 harvests both started on September 26, but the 2010 harvest ended in mid-October, while the 2011s were picked all the way to the end of the month. Seillan describes 2011 as an earlier drinking vintage next to 2010, although given the way these wines age, I would not be surprised if the 2011s develop nicely in bottle. Seillan told me he performed aggressive leaf pulling two weeks before the harvest in order to get the fruit ripe. I also tasted all the 2002s and 2003s, and was particularly impressed with the 2002s, all wines that have held up well. Tel. (707) 431-3930

A strong showing for the 2010 barrel sample revealed lots of fruit in this primary, unevolved blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. With a low 14% alcohol and an elevated pH of 3.72, it reveals lots of blue and black fruit, cedarwood, toasty oak and white chocolate characteristics. This lighter-styled, medium to full-bodied effort’s personality appears to be similar to the 2000 Le Desir’s.