2020 Spottswoode, Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena

Tasted blind, in a lineup that included vintages back to 2010, a barrel sample of Spottswoode's 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon stood out as being one of the most exciting efforts. Full-bodied, ripe and rich without being overbearing, it delivers concentrated black cherry and cassis fruit framed by supple, velvety-textured tannins. It's long on the finish, with an attractively soft, dusty-loamy texture and no overt signs of a fire-troubled Napa vintage.

The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon shows good up front fruit, but that fades pretty quickly, ultimately exposing a compact mid-palate and abrupt, drying finish. This is a fine record of the year, but there is no way to get past the significant challenges 2020 posed.

Picked at just 23 Brix in late August when there was smoke but before any major Glass Fire impact. Made as usual. They sent as many as 300 samples to labs in Australia and British Columbia. To be released September 2023. Deep crimson. A little spicy on the nose but overall ‘cool’ (!) and restrained with a notably dry finish. Not quite as gloriously persistent as usual. (JR)