2008 Robert Mondavi Winery, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is a big wine loaded with black fruit, cedar, licorice, grilled herbs and tar. Layers of flavor build effortlessly to the muscular, virile finish. Despite its size, the 2008 Reserve maintains elements of classicism that serve to balance some of the wine’s more extroverted leanings. The wine impresses for its depth, expressive inner perfume and beautifully integrated tannins. It is a showstopper from Mondavi. The 2008 Reserve is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. Tel. (888) RMONDAVI; www.robertmondavi.com

I was also able to taste a bottle of the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, which now at age 10 has shed some baby fat yet still has a youthful, ripe, sexy personality. Offering up lots of black currants, tobacco, graphite, and leafy herb notes, it’s full-bodied, has sweet tannins, and is overall a rich, powerful wine that’s just now at the early stages of its drink window.

Bright medium ruby. Very dark aromas of blackberry, cassis and licorice lifted by a violet element. Then juicy but quite tight on the palate, showing less sweetness than the 2007. A distinctly vertical, linear wine today; will it round out in barrel? Best today on the long, gripping finish, where the tannins are nicely ripe. The top cabernet lots got a maceration of up to 40 days in 2008, according to head winemaker Janssens.

A powerful and rich wine with dried fruit, figs, raisins and prunes. Full-bodied, dense and layered. A little too much for me. Drink now.