2003 Ridge, Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains

I've had better bottles, but as it approaches its 15th birthday, the 2003 Monte Bello is beginning to look like one of the weaker vintages of the new millennium—and certainly of this tasting—exhibiting rich and already evolved aromas of roasted dark fruit that include hints of fig and prune, as well as classic nuances of cigar wrapper and espresso roast. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied and still structured around rich tannins, balanced by bright acids, but it's showing more evolution than the 2002 or the 2004 vintages that bookend it. Baugher believes that he may have picked prematurely in this vintage, suggesting that phenolics were out of sync with sugars. The blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot, and it attained 13.2% natural alcohol.

Complex with great balance. Relatively rich for this vineyard even though the alcohol level is certainly not excessive. (JR)