1999 Ridge, Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains

The nose, while clearly ripe, is subdued and inexpressive. However, the palate is full-bodied and very concentrated, and while the tannins are still present, the wine is polished. It's certainly approachable but still tight and compact, though good acidity ensures a long, stylish finish.

Bright saturated ruby. Very subtle, deep aromas of cassis, blackberry, iodine, iron and bitter chocolate; if the 2000 smells like Margaux, this is more Pauillac. Dense, bright and powerfully structured; thick but sharply delineated. Intriguing notes of leather and bitter chocolate. Firm acids and tannins contribute to the impression of backbone. But the tannins of the 2000 are even sweeter.

The 1999 Monte Bello comes across as lacking the polish of the best vintages. Leather, smoke, tobacco and licorice notes show oxidative overtones, which, along with an element of brett, add to the wine’s distinctly rustic personality. There does not appear to be any upside from cellaring bottles further. The cool summer led to a long growing season in 1999.

72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Cold rainy spring delayed flowering, but good fruit set eventually resulted in high yields, equalling those of 1997. 166 tons from 105 acres. Harvest end October through mid November. Exceptionally, some inoculated yeast used for primary fermentation when H 2 S notes were detected in some lots. Malolactic conversion proceeded without inoculation. 17 months in barrel (93% air-dried American oak, 7% French oak). Marred by the mildest TCA note alas but they had only one bottle. Cassis and some acidity and a lean freshness. The fruit is probably not showing its best in this bottle. But the tannin management has clearly been superb. Really sinewy and fresh above all with great persistence. I can see that without that mild TCA this would be amazing so have scored it as though TCA-free. (JR)