2020 Aubert, Powder House Chardonnay, Sonoma County

Aubert's 2020 Chardonnay Powder House—from a Forestville vineyard planted in 2015 to a mix of Hyde Old Wente and Mount Eden selections—comes across as a bit more crisp, focused and linear than many of the other wines here. Melon, yellow plum and lime notes appear upon the nose, while the full-bodied palate is concentrated, fresh and zesty. It's an excellent wine, maybe a bit more suited for a food pairing (delicate white fish or poultry dishes) than the more bombastic offerings.

The 2020 Chardonnay Powder House is a good example of the natural struggle of the year. It shows good energy and focus, even if the aromatics are a touch diffused. There is some aggressiveness in the contours and yet enough balance to hold it all together. The Powder House is very clearly the product of a hugely challenging year and set of conditions.