2010 Artadi, Pagos Viejos, Rioja

The 2010 Pagos Viejos is a blend from different plots of old-vine Tempranillo over 50 years old, from the villages of Laguardia, Elvillar and Leza, fermented in open wooden vats and aged for fifteen months in French oak barrels. It’s a backward and tight wine, initially showing some wood, but it soon comes back with fresh red fruit with the depth and complexity of the old vines. Sweet, polished tannins, very persistent, a great subtle wine, power with elegance. Superb! Drink 2014-2025. I tasted Artadi’s 2010s and 2011s, as they seem to be selling the new vintages very fast and they even sell part of their wines en primeur. 2010, 2011 and 2012 have been very dry years. I didn’t have the chance to taste any 2012s, but I look forward to doing so the next time around. 2011 seems to be more fruit forward, more primary, without the complexity and depth of the 2010s, which were very elegant and is a superb vintage for Artadi. There are differences in texture between the two years, 2010 being more gentle, rounder and silkier and 2011 a bit wilder with a touch of rusticity. When it comes to production methods, only Tempranillo is used (except for the white which is produced exclusively with Viura), they destemmed all the grapes, the press wine never makes it into the final blends, and they only use French oak barrels. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700; www.foliowine.com