2004 Roda, Roda I Reserva, Rioja

Glass-staining ruby. Strikingly pungent aromas of red berry preserves, smoky minerals and fresh herbs. Pure, sweet red and dark berry flavors are firmed by fine-grained tannins and gain a richer mocha quality with aeration. The impressively long and assertive finish echoes the dark berry note and leaves a zesty mineral quality behind. I find this wine more energetic than many 2004s, which are typically on the richer side.

The 2004 vintage was a great one in Rioja (as it was in the rest of Spain). The 2004 Roda I Reserva is purple-colored with an expressive, youthful bouquet of wood smoke, espresso, incense, tobacco, black cherry, and blackberry. Structured on the palate, it has enough ripe tannin to evolve for another 6-8 years. Sweetly fruited, it has superior depth and concentration, layered savory flavors, and a lengthy, pure finish. Its drinking window will extend from 2015 to 2034. Bodegas Roda is a family-owned winery in Rioja that was founded in 1987. The winery was completed in 1991, and the first commercial vintage was 1992. Three tiers of wine have been produced, Roda, Roda I, and Cirsion, all from the estate’s 17 parcels of vines, each of which is vinified separately. No wine is made from vines less than 30 years of age. Roda I focuses on the dark fruit side of the spectrum, while Cirsion is a selection of the best vines within 4 of the 17 blocks. This luxury cuvee is produced only in good years; 2002 was not produced, and 2008 will be skipped over as well. Beginning with the 2008 vintage, Roda will be releasing an as yet to be named entry-level wine designed to be more forward and appealing to younger wine drinkers. A barrel sample was very pleasant and is likely to sell for under $20. In addition, Roda has begun a project in Ribera del Duero. I tasted barrel samples of 2008 and 2009 of this yet to be named wine, and they revealed plenty of promise. Importer: Kobrand, New York, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700

As we didn't have another recent vintage to compare with the 2010 and the expectations were so high, Roda's CEO Agustín Santolaya insisted on uncorking another excellent vintage, the 2004 Roda I, to check on its evolution. The production and source of the grapes was basically the same as today, 100% Tempranillo that, back then, was fermented in French oak vats with indigenous yeasts, followed by aging in barriques for 16 months. There might be some things in common with 2010, which is the current vintage—a very balanced year with great ripeness and acidity, wines with power and elegance and a very slow development. This 2004 is aging at a glacial pace and should have a long life ahead of it. At the time, they produced 184,447 bottles of this 2004. It has been in bottle since May 2006.

Pure Tempranillo, the Roda I has a superb nose with blackberry, cassis, leather and a touch of peppermint. The palate displays a fleshy entry, great depth of pure black fruit tha lures you in and than crescendos with a spicy, almost decadent finish. Superb. Tasted May 2009.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 31/01/2010 Pure Tempranillo, the Roda I has a superb nose with blackberry, cassis, leather and a touch of peppermint. The palate displays a fleshy entry, great depth of pure black fruit tha lures you in and than crescendos with a spicy, almost decadent finish. Superb. Tasted May 2009. The 2004 vintage was a great one in Rioja (as it was in the rest of Spain). The 2004 Roda I Reserva is purple-colored with an expressive, youthful bouquet of wood smoke, espresso, incense, tobacco, black cherry, and blackberry. Structured on the palate, it has enough ripe tannin to evolve for another 6-8 years. Sweetly fruited, it has superior depth and concentration, layered savory flavors, and a lengthy, pure finish. Its drinking window will extend from 2015 to 2034. (Jay Miller)
(94)