2001 Marques de Riscal, Baron Chirel Reserva, Rioja

Fading medium red color. Redcur rant and cherry aromas show a distinctly leathery quality, with dried flowers and anise adding complexity. Dry, focused red fruit flavors are light-bodied and gently peppery , repeating the leathery quality While I appreciate the uncompromisingly traditional expression of this wine, I would have liked more fruit sweetness and wonder about the leathery element.

The 2001 Baron de Chirel Reserva is composed of 80% Tempranillo with the balance an assortment of other varietals selected from the estate’s older vineyards with lower yields. The wine was oak aged for 21 months. The color is a dark ruby/purple and the nose, with coaxing, gives up aromas of earth and oak, but the fruit is muted. On the palate, the wine is firm and somewhat hard in the finish. There is fruit present (it is after all the 2001 vintage) but whether it will ever play a prominent role remains to be seen. Importer: Cornerstone Communications, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-0371

85% Tempranillo, 15% other varieties. A great vintage that offers a lot of ripeness while maintaining freshness. Super-sweet, smooth and powerful fruit. A wine with a lot of concentration, it has everything: abundant sweet tannins, red plums, spice, and it is starting to offer a very pleasant tertiary earthiness. Quite impressive. (FC)

1986 was the first vintage of this wine (released 1991). 85% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet. 21 months in barrique; smoky and very dense and concentrated on the nose. Rich, firm, savoury. Powerful, savoury, deep deep fruit and structure. Very long and still a long way to go. Dense and rich. Smooth as smooth. Amazing density. (JH)