2008 CVNE, Contino Vina del Olivo, Rioja

The 2008 Contino Vino del Olivo (Contino’s “tenderloin parcel”) is made up of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano that was barrel-fermented, underwent malolactic fermentation in barrel, and was then aged for 17 months in new barriques. It is a dense, mouth-filling, richly fruited offering made in a more contemporary style than most of Cune’s other offerings. Expect it to unwind for another 5-6 years and drink well through 2028. Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana (C.V.N.E.) is known colloquially to most Spanish wine drinkers as Cune. The company was founded in 1879 by the Real de Asua brothers and still remains in control of their direct descendants. In the 1920s ownership started Vina Real and in 2004 a new winery was built in Laguardia. In 1973 Contino was created to further the concept of the single estate winery and has since been one of the principal leaders in the resurrection of the nearly extinct Graciano grape. Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin, www.europvin.com

Inky ruby. A heady, complex bouquet evokes dried cherry, smoked meat and mocha, with a subtle floral overtone. Taut red fruit and floral pastille flavors flesh out with air and pick up a subtle black tea nuance. Shows a tangy edge on the persistent finish, which features smooth tannins and lingering spiciness.