2009 Emilio Moro, Ribera del Duero, Malleolus Valderramiro

(raised in new French and American oak): Glass-staining ruby. Sexy, highly perfumed bouquet evokes black and blue fruits, potpourri, incense and smoky minerals. Juicy, penetrating and seamless, offering sweet blueberry and boysenberry flavors lifted by tangy minerality. Finishes sweet and very long, with resonating floral character and supple, even tannins.

The 2009 Malleolus de Valderramiro comes from 85-year-old vines and is matured for 18 months in new French and American oak. It received a eulogy from my predecessor in barrel, and although my own appreciation is more tempered, I still regard it as a stupendous wine. The oak is seamlessly integrated on the stylish nose that offers hints of mocha and dark chocolate to complement the brassy bold black fruit – creme de cassis and blueberry jam. The palate is full-bodied and just a little cloying on the entry. It is decadent, structured and voluminous, a bold intense wine with mouth-lacquering luscious, almost viscous fruit on the finish with fresh dates and cassis. It is uncompromisingly primal and unyielding at the moment and deserves several years in bottle. Drink 2018-2030. The important year for Bodegas Emilio Moro is 1932 – when the Finca Resalso vines were planted and Emilio Moro was born. For many years the fruit was sold off in bulk until 1988, when Jose Moro Espinosa invested his savings and established his own bodega, joining the D.O. the following year. I found the wines to be rich, decadent and packed to the rafters with ebullient ripe fruit. Personally, I would prefer to see less dependency on new oak, as I feel that it is masking the individuality of the terroir. If you have a pretty face – there is no need to hide it away. Importer: Please contact the winery to find your nearest importer. www.emiliomoro.com