2017 Taylor's, Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port

Aromas of dark berries, wet earth and dried flowers follow through to a full body, medium sweet and lots of intense and powerful tannins that are extremely fine-grained. Goes on for minutes. Polished and sophisticated young vintage Port. Lovely old vine Port. Try after 2027.

The 2017 Taylor’s Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port represents only the eighth release. It comes from 80 to 120-year old vines located in five parcels (Polverinho, Renova do Depósito, Renova do Armazém, Gricha and Vinha Grande) that were picked from September 1. It has a ripe and sensual, playful bouquet with ripe fig and damson bursting from the glass. Fine definition here, real depth and complexity as it reveals subtle melted tar and bayleaf aromas with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. This feels lush and rounded with black pepper, clove and tobacco notes infusing the black fruit, long and sensual towards the finish. Perhaps I have a slight preference for the regular Taylor’s, but this is going to be fascinating to monitor during its evolution in bottle. Total production is 5,600 bottles.

A field blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinto Cão, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca from five separate plots comprising vines 80–120 years old. Vargellas is in the remote eastern reaches of the Douro Valley. TA 4.86 g/l, RS 105 g/l, pH 3.75. This is only the eighth vintage of this wine ever to have been declared. 5,600 bottles. Not quite as dark as the Taylor’s. A little more lifted and fragrant on the nose, more red-fruited. Prettier in aroma, less wild, the alcohol less immediately obvious. On the palate, that same wonderful fruit concentration but a little more delicacy and apparent freshness in the flavours, even though the tannins are firmer and have a more sturdy grip, making the finish thick and chewy at the moment. (JH)