2000 Dal Forno Romano, Amarone della Valpolicella, Monte Lodoletta

Nearly black color. Extremely youthful, unforthcoming nose hints at black cherry, plum, violet, bitter chocolate, quinine and bell pepper. This is almost too concentrated and tannic to describe. Palate- and toothstaining flavors of black plum, coffee liqueur, spices, tobacco, vanilla and herbs abound. Alcoholic, heady wine, with a much denser and more tannic finish than the Amarones of Giuseppe Quintarelli. Not for those who believe that less can be more. This cult producer's 2000s are clearly superior to his 1999s, a lesser year for Amarone.

Impenetrably dark ruby. Fine yet opulent dried cherry with hints of Moroccan leather. Great depth, but not as immediately enticing as the 1999. Dark cherry fruit with appassito notes. The rich tannins go well with the concentrated intense fruit, but it is less polished and complex overall than the previous vintage and a little hot on the finish. (WS)