2017 Tassi, Brunello di Montalcino, Colombaio

A darkly alluring mix of crushed stone and black cherries is complemented by sweet pipe tobacco and hints of cedar as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Colombaio blossoms in the glass. This is surprisingly delicate in feel yet salty to the core, featuring a savory mix of woodland berries contrasted by hints of sour citrus. It tapers off structured, holding its power in reserve, as hints of mocha and lavender slowly fade. The Colombaio will take some time to fully blossom, but it will be time well spent.

It looks like the name of this wine has changed from Colombaio to Colombaiolo, two Italian words that pretty much mean the same thing (i.e., the "pigeon coop"). The Tassi 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Colombaiolo (with 3,539 bottles made) is a single-vineyard expression with a note of immediate sweetness that comes across as candied cherry or raspberry tart. Those hot-vintage primary aromas cede to spice, earth and dried rose. Within the greater Tassi portfolio, this wine is slightly more streamlined in terms of mouthfeel.

Lustrous and just mid ruby. A little closed on the nose and a little brooding. Aromatic marasca-cherry palate with lots of acidity, but the fruit holds up, if only just. (WS)