2016 La Magia, Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva

Dark and youthfully inward, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva lifts up to show spiced plums and cherries in an air of crushed rocks, smoke, undergrowth and tar. The textures here are elegant to the extreme, velvety-smooth and weighty in feel, yet suspended by a core of brisk acidity. A densely packed wave of mineral-encased black fruits and spices saturates all that it touches, leaving a lasting layer of fine-grained tannins. The finale is dramatically long and structured, offering balsam herbs and hints of licorice and black currant. La Magia sources their Riserva from a parcel planted within their vineyards in 1974. It refines for 42 months in new 500-liter French tonneaux, which, in the case of the 2016, has integrated very well. The future is bright here, though patience is necessary.

The La Magia 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (made with organic fruit) is a bold and powerful wine with a full-bodied approach and a strong 15% alcohol. The wine is redolent of cherry liqueur, baked fruit and blackcurrant. Beyond that, it offers plenty of toast and oak spice with cinnamon, tar and licorice. The clarity of the 2016 Sangiovese fruit does break through, and that's what ultimately gives this wine its freshness and brightness.