2016 Castiglion del Bosco, Brunello di Montalcino, Millecento Riserva

The Castiglion del Bosco 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Millecento 1100 is the aspirational wine in this portfolio. It aims high and showcases the carefully manicured approach of the winemaking team in both the vineyard and the winery. This is a grand vintage with firm structure, lots of fruit brightness, depth and freshness. You should expect balanced intensity at this price point, and you get it. My only concern, again, is the high 15% alcohol, which is evidently part of a wider trend that now characterizes this appellation. Production is 20,000 bottles.

Full bottle a very heavy 1,524 g. Transparent ruby. Pale rim. You'll never be aware of the alcoholic strength. This is almost featherlight! So appetising with a hint of autumn leaves and wonderfully fresh fruit. Hint of prunes on the nose but the fruit is not dried – it's fresh. Long and layered. This is what Brunello can do. The 2015 was lovely too. Great intensity of flavour. Love the little bitter note on the finish after that very superior fruit. (JR)