2015 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti), Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva

The 2015 Riserva is full of rustic aromatics, along with leather, dense black cherry and plummy fruit. Underneath the intensity of the nose, there is a full-bodied core with a softer, more fruit forward and mouthfilling palate. The tannins are fine-grained and give way to the generosity of the vintage. Drink 2024-2034.

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva struts its old-school stylings with a beguiling display of musky cherry and strawberry offset by damp earth tones, hints of cedar and mint. It’s unbelievably soft and silky in texture, ushering in ripe red berry fruits laced in saline-minerals and savory spice, with building inner florals toward the close. Formidable structure awaits on the finish, yet the 2015 Riserva manages to maintain freshness, coming across as both structured for the long haul but also with enough primary appeal to warrant checking in on today. It’s gorgeous. Tasted over the course of two days with consistent results.

Livio Sassetti was one of the founding members of the Brunello di Montalcino consorzio in 1967. Today, winemaking is in the hands of the fourth generation with his son Lorenzo at the helm. Unequivocally earthy and savoury in personality, this Riserva exhibits intense iron, leather and tar, with grilled rosemary and sage aromas in the background. The palate is muscular and firm yet somehow light on its feet. Dry, chalky tannins are substantial but leave space for wild berries and quite a succulent and mineral-driven core. In the spirit of Riserva, however, this needs time.