2016 Valdicava, Brunello di Montalcino, Vigna Montosoli

Here in its second vintage, the Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli is taking no prisoners. It wafts up with a beguiling and sultry display, with savory cherry sauce and sage giving way to spiced citrus peels, smoky minerals, animal musk and black olive tapenade. Youthfully dense and velvety upon entry, it offers masses of dark red and black fruits, contrasting almost salty nuances with a dark chocolate bitterness that creates tension and complexity. The 2016 builds like a crescendo, gaining in intensity and verve, right up until the moment that its gritty tannins take firm hold of the palate and refuse to let go. Still, echoes of licorice, blackberry and cooling herbal tones linger. It closes up rather quickly in the glass today, becoming monolithic and austere, yet the gorgeous snapshot received over the first ten minutes after opening it delivered a wonderful preview. I can’t wait to see what future vintages hold for the Vigna Montosoli, as it is one of the best young wines I’ve ever tasted from Valdicava. Unfortunately, it is only available in magnum.

Tasted from magnum (one of just 1,500 made), this is a new wine from Valdicava that is presented in quite the statement bottle with stunning artwork that depicts an allegory to a saint. With fruit from one of the most celebrated crus in the appellation, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli needs quite a bit of extra time to open. I followed my sample's evolution over a 24-hour period to get a better look inside. This wine requires extra patience. On my first tasting, I found that the fruit struggled to come through, and I recorded notes of white pepper, savory herb, campfire ash and crushed stone. Blue flowers like dried lilac and lavender also appear. When I came back to the bottle a day later, I found that the bouquet had gained in detail, sharpness and increasingly articulate specifics. But it took its time. To the palate, the wine is dense and firm, and I have no doubt as to its long-term aging potential. It is an honor to be one of the first people to taste this ambitious new release from the Montosoli vineyard made by Vincenzo Abbruzzese and his family.