2001 Solaia, Toscana

The 2001 Solaia, far superior to the overrated 1997 (to which I also prefer the 1999 and 1994) is a classic example of central Tuscan Cabernet at its best, ruby-purple in color, warm and explosive in its expression of black currant fruit, tobacco, tar, and graphite, superbly concentrated and dense on the palate but balanced and shapely at the same time and with a noble austerity and grip on the finish which resembles the best of Bordeaux. The wine is a sure bet for another two decades of superb drinking. Importer: Remy Amerique, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2202

The 2001 Solaia (magnum) represents the peak of an era in which richness, concentration and extraction were pushed to the limit, typical of so many wines in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Super-ripe dark red fruit, raspberry jam, rose petal, licorice and copious new oak build in an unapologetically rich, heady Solaia. The 2001 is not at all subtle, but it has aged well.

Plump and rich in style, the palate offers layers of blackberry preserve as well as nuances of espresso and liquorice. The wine freshens up as it sits in the glass with leather and soy giving over to balsam, mint and thyme notes. While this may not have the utmost refinement, it is adeptly balanced in its full-figured and powerful expression.

Masses of coffee and blackberry character in this youthful wine. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins, loads of fruit and excellent wood. Big and juicy, with a long, long finish. A fine wine. Needs time. Best after 2007. 7,500 cases made.

Served blind at Loosen annual dinner, this Solaia continues to leave me impressed, but as much as might hope. The nose still has that dense black fruit, pencil shavings, a little animally this time. The palate is full-bodied and tannic, rather foursquare (I used the term broad-shouldered last time) with a burly, smoky finish. Yes, impressive, but certainly not as much fun as one would like. Drink 2012-2020+ Tasted September 2008.

Aged 14 months in new French oak. Meaty character – very much like beef gravy. Smoky and vanilla-scented too – revealing its oak a little, perhaps. Finishes just a little abruptly, with plenty of fine but furry tannin. (RH)