2007 Il Poggione, Brunello di Montalcino, Vigna Paganelli Riserva

Il Poggione's 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is utterly stunning, but it is surprisingly tannic and huge for a vintage in which so many wines are much more approachable. Layers of dark red stone fruit open up on the palate, followed by sweet spices, savory herbs and mint. Beautifully perfumed and expressive throughout, the 2007 is a jewel of a wine. The only thing it needs is time.

A huge, dramatic wine, the 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva literally explodes from the glass. This is a decidedly exuberant, flashy wine loaded with dark fruit. Tobacco, smoke, tar and licorice all come alive in this big, broad-shouldered Riserva. Here, too, the wine’s balance is impeccable.

A powerful yet superbly refined Brunello with a full body and velvety tannins that are layered and silky textured. Lovely dried fruits and spices. Beautiful intensity. Super finish. Drink or hold.

Rich and medium-weight, with cherry, berry, leather and spice notes converging on the long, juicy finish. Balanced in a sleek, compact manner, ending with fresh touches of mineral. Best from 2016 through 2032. 5,667 cases made. (BS)

(14.5% alcohol): Bright ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, dark plum, smoky underbrush, spicecake and tobacco, plus a strong component of sweet, nutty oak. Lush, full and sweet, with black fruit, vanilla and licorice flavors dominating. The long finish features big, broad, mouthdusting tannins that coat the front teeth. Given the nature of 2007, this big wine probably won't be as long-lived as some other recent vintages for this estate, whose wines are known for their longevity. But it offers plenty of early appeal for a Riserva and should evolve nicely for another 15 years.