2014 Il Poggione, Brunello di Montalcino

Il Poggione has one of the appellation's most enviable track records for quality and cellar longevity. The 2014 Brunello di Montalcino is a different beast. This wine prizes elegance, finesse and a compact mouthfeel. I would suggest a slightly shorter drinking window of approximately ten years. No matter how you cut it, the wine is absolutely beautiful and indeed ranks high on a list of favorite wines from the vintage. The bouquet is chiseled and tight with wild blueberry, plum, red rose and a touch of cherry confit. No doubt the mouthfeel is thinner in this vintage, but the wine has plenty more going on to keep your attention. I'm liking it. I went back to the bottle a few days after it had been opened and the wine was still going strong. Some 110,000 bottles were made.

Good full bright red. Red plum, apple, and tobacco aromas are delightfully complemented in the mouth by alkaline and mineral nuances. Saliva-inducing salinity adds to the appeal of a lusciously persistent finish featuring repeating red fruit and herbal nuances. Another easygoing rather stylish but lightweight Brunello typical of the vintage.

Healthy, mid ruby. A somewhat reductive and closed nose. Supple fruit palate that is still a little closed. Soft and ripe but without a lot of tension or depth (yet). (WS)