2004 Poggio di Sotto, Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is quite possibly the best wine that has ever been made at Poggio di Sotto. A towering, structured Brunello, the 2004 hits all the right notes with a captivating tapestry of aromatics, huge fruit and equally dramatic tannins that give the wine its vertical, imposing feel. The 2004 could use another few years to fully soften, but it is spellbinding today.

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a stunning wine that captures every bit of the potential I sensed when I first tasted it from barrel a few years ago. Freshly cut roses, red berries, minerals, and mint are just some of the nuances that emerge from this layered, sensual wine. In 2004 most Riservas tend towards the dark end of the spectrum but Poggio di Sotto’s Riserva is decidedly fresh and bright. The wine’s purity, depth, detail, and finesse are utterly remarkable. Once again, a comparison with Bruno Giacosa’s Barbaresco from the Asili vineyard seems appropriate. This is a hypnotizing, totally transcendental Brunello readers won’t want to miss. In fact, it is so profound, it is a shame to spit! The estate’s 2004 Riserva spent a whopping 60 months in cask prior to being bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. (Antonio Galloni)