2014 San Giusto a Rentennano, Toscana, Percarlo Sangiovese

The 2014 Percarlo is one of the most refined young Percarlos I can remember tasting at San Giusto. A silky, polished wine, it makes its case with persistence and length more than power alone. Dark cherry, sage, tobacco and underbrush develop in the glass, but it is the wine's persistence that is most impressive. The 2014 was aged 70% in French oak barrique and 30% in cask. Over the last few years, the introduction of larger-format oak has added a level of finesse to Percarlo that is palpable. The 2014 is one of the stars of the vintage. Don't miss it.

The 2014 Percarlo is a pure expression of Sangiovese made from organically farmed grapes. This is a dark and penetrating wine that actually tastes riper, darker and thicker than you might expect of this cool and difficult vintage. The alcohol here is 15%. Black cherry and dried blackberry segue to spice, leather, tar and grilled herb. Despite those bold and opulent fruit flavors, the wine shows moderate complexity and depth. It offers a lot in terms of muscle and power, but it's ultimately more monosyllabic in this vintage. Bottle production was 13,817 units strong.