2008 San Giusto a Rentennano, Toscana, Percarlo Sangiovese

The 2008 Percarlo is holding back serious power in reserve. A tightly wound core of fruit hits the palate as this energetic, vibrant wine shows off its taut personality. The 2008 needs time to resolve some of its inner tension, but it is strikingly beautiful just the same. Today it reminds me of the 1996, but with more kick and depth. -- Antonio Galloni

(100% sangiovese; 14.5% alcohol): Deep ruby. Earth and tar notes complicate deep red cherry and herbs on the nose. Enters smooth, rich and suave, with aromatic bay leaf and clove notes accenting and lifting the flavors of red cherry and earth. Finishes with youthfully chewy tannins and hints of vanilla and iron. Certainly a very good Percarlo, but I don't find the depth of the best vintages. However, since this wine always seems to gain in flesh and volume with bottle aging, I tend to give it the benefit of the doubt with regard to future development.