2009 Lisini, Brunello di Montalcino, Ugolaia

A dark, powerful wine, the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia shows the more virile, potent side of Brunello. Smoke, tar, licorice, incense and generous dark-fleshed fruit notes flesh out as this ample, large-scaled Brunello shows off its distinctive personality. The 2009 can be enjoyed now, but it will be even better in another few years, once the tannins have softened a bit further. Even with time, the 2009 will be a wine that speaks to power more than finesse. Still, the Ugolaia is one of the better wines for what was a very challenging year in Montalcino.

A shade deeper than the straight Riserva and more youthful looking. Warm nose with hints of undergrowth and cherry. Has none of that advanced development on the palate. Elegant and with just enough acidity. Finely grained tannins on a savoury finish. (WS)