2022 Isole e Olena, Cepparello, IGT

The 2022 Cepparello is an elegant, sensual wine. Pliant and layered on the palate, with terrific depth, the 2022 is an absolute delight. Time in the glass brings out the wine's lovely mid-palate creaminess. The 2022 spent 18 months in a combination of cask and smaller French oak barrels.

This is my first taste of Isole e Olena's landmark wine now that this historic estate has passed from the ownership of the De Marchi family to France's EPI Group (Société Européenne de Participations Industrielles). The 2022 Cepparello is all Sangiovese from this magnificent property that covers the rolling hills between two tiny hamlets, one named Isole and the other Olena. In between are vineyards on well-draining soils with galestro shale, open vistas and gentle breezes. These conditions contribute to the vibrancy of the fruit and its natural freshness. Winemaking for Cepparello follows a familiar pattern, starting with fermentation in cone-shaped vats and aging in a combination of barrique, tonneaux and botte grande for 18 months. I can't say that this is my favorite vintage of Cepparello, especially when I think back to 2013, 2016, 2019 and 2021. The 2022 offers sweeping flavors and good concentration, but it does not have the same depth or length. With dark cherry, blackcurrant, spice and iris root, this is an elegant wine with an accessible personality that makes it approachable without too much fuss. Production is 50,000 bottles.

The nose is spry and delicate, and less plump and opulent than the high alcohol would suggest, and it exudes ripe cherry fruit. The fine attack leads to a velvety palate, compact and backed by firm acidity. The alcohol is not that evident and the wine finishes with welcome elegance, polish and length of flavour.

Selected neutral yeast. Aged 19 months, 75% in barrique, 25% in larger oak. (50% of the 2024 is aged in larger oak.) Very fragrant indeed. Great balance and finesse. So marvellously elegant! (JR)