2020 Bibi Graetz, Testamatta Rossa, Toscana

Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch.

100% Sangiovese made from young vines from several vineyards between Florence and Siena. Fermented and aged in stainless steel for six months. Just mid ruby. Very youthful and a little embryonic, with notes of brooding yet fresh red fruit. Really needs time to open up and, with aeration, becomes a complex amalgam of crushed, fresh cherry and cranberry with powdery tannins. Super-elegant and long and wired with ripe acidity. (WS)