2013 Bibi Graetz, Testamatta Rossa, Toscana

Bibi Graetz applies his unique winemaking philosophy to a can-do-no-wrong vintage. The 2013 Testamatta (100% Sangiovese) opens to a deep and dark ruby color and smoky aromas of cigar ash, crushed stone, licorice, grilled herb and dried cassis. Make no mistake: This is one of the most original and off-the-radar expressions of Sangiovese you will ever taste. There is managed rusticity here that matches the imperfection and the undeniable beauty of the artwork that graces its label. Those bright blue and yellow brush strokes offer major contrast, yet together they reach harmony. That seems to be the overriding message of this wine that is otherwise loaded with personality and charm.

100% Sangiovese from more than 35-year-old vines. Dark crimson. Strong damson notes. Lots of life and raciness with an undertow of chestnuts. Very chewy. Lots of energy. Masses of acidity, and quite a bit of tannins. (JR)