2022 Bibi Graetz, Colore Bianco, Toscana

The lovely Bibi Graetz 2022 Colore Bianco is an aspirational wine for sure (just look at its price tag) that seeks to send a specific message about a little-known and very precious wine territory. Ansonica grapes come from the island of Giglio off the Tuscan Coast, and although this little paradise is steadily growing in interest, it only counts a handful of wine producers (nine in total) who operate there. Bibi Graetz is totally in love with Giglio Island and has been purchasing abandoned vineyards on handmade terraces whenever possible. Some of his sites are drop-dead gorgeous, with infinite views of the sea. The 2022 vintage is the third year in a row of consistent summer heat, but the island microclimate benefits from breezes that keep things from heating up too much. In fact, temperatures here remain quite stable which helps because there is very little rainfall. This wine has a direct and vertical character (compared to Testamatta) with pretty richness. This wine also sees more oak (and no stainless steel), making it the bigger wine, structurally speaking. It offers tropical tones of papaya, gooseberry and green melon with salted caramel and spicy saffron. The vintage needs a lick more freshness. Production is a mere 2,400 bottles.