2022 Bibi Graetz, Colore Rossa, Toscana

The Bibi Graetz 2022 Colore sources its fruit from only two sites in this vintage: from 60-year-old vines in the Olmo vineyard (with 400-meter-plus elevations) and 88-year-old vines in Lamole (Chianti Classico). The vines are mostly south-facing, but the elevations are key. Meanwhile, Testamatta comes from mostly cool, north-facing sites. These results show lots of vertical heft and sharp tones with bright fruit, mineral graphite and blue flower. Bibi seeks transparency in his wines, and although the 2022 vintage delivers heavier fruit aromas overall, the wine does offer a pretty textural lightness.

Remarkably pretty, the 2022 Colore lifts from the glass with a bouquet of dusty violet and lavender tones complementing crushed blackberries as a mix of exotic spice and stone dust adds contrast. This is a more lifted and feminine interpretation, silken in feel with medium-bodied weight. Depths of mineral-infused wild berry fruits slowly add grippy traction toward the close. The 2022 finishes staining and long, with a blue and purple floral resonance. Hints of bitter blackberry tug at the cheeks.

100% Sangiovese from high-elevation vineyards (Lamole, Vincigliata, Olmo and Siena) with >70-year-old bush vines and vines trained on Guyot, grown on galestro and clay soils. Spontaneous fermentation in open barriques for the small parcels and in 50-hl oak casks and stainless steel for the larger plots with three punchdowns daily. After the alcoholic fermentation had finished, the wine was racked off into old barriques and 50-hl casks where it went through malolactic conversion. The wine was aged in casks for 18 months before bottling. Mid to deep ruby. Takes its time to open up and I would decant this because you are going to finish the bottle before you know it, and the youthful nose with peppery cherry and raspberry notes then really comes into its own. Juicy, rich but not heavy or sweet red fruit on the palate with soft bitter-sweet tannins that need more time to integrate into the wine. Hedonistic. (WS)