2015 Bibi Graetz, Colore Rossa, Toscana

The 2015 Colore is a breakthrough wine for Bibi Graetz and his unique approach to winemaking and fruit sourcing. Remember, this renegade Tuscan vintner dedicates much of his intellectual effort to discovering the ancient vines and vineyards he wants to farm. He is like a high level garagiste who does not pretend to limit his fruit selection to vines under his direct ownership. This affords a level of versatility and range that is not common to the many family-owned estates of Italian viticulture that focus their efforts on their own land. Colore is a blend of equal parts Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino from three sites (Lamole, Vincigliata and Siena). The 2013 and 2014 vintages were skipped, and Bibi Graetz has moved forward directly to 2015. I tasted this wine from four bottles: one opened the previous day at lunch, one opened the night before, one opened that morning and one opened just before I poured the sample into may glass. This approach awarded an interesting panoramic view of the wine's evolution, but in truth, it did not change as much as you might think. I mean this in a positive way, because the wine in no way tasted flat or oxidative. Of course, the recently opened bottles showed some nervous and rigid qualities, whereas the bottles that had been open longer were softer, more expressive and more fleshed out. Colore offers dark and determined quality of fruit with layered tones of ripe cherry, dried blackberry, spice and grilled herb. Elegant mineral tones also appear. This is a unique wine with a personality that marries a wild side to a sophisticated one. This is a singular Tuscan red.

The 2015 Colore wafts up from the glass with masses of black cherry and autumnal spices complemented by sweet lavender. This is pure elegance, silky, nearly creamy, with zesty acidity and a pleasant inner sweetness offset by inner earth and floral tones. It leaves a staining of primary concentration contrasted by lingering sour citrus and tart wild berry nuances. There’s certainly a lot of power here, yet perfectly managed and with fantastic balance. I can already see the evolution that Graetz was striving for here, trying to focus more on purity and vertical lift.

80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 10% Colorino. Another fine vintage in Tuscany with a very warm summer until rain in mid August. Harvest started on 26 September, finishing at the end of October. More evolution present in both colour (hints of brick red) and nose. The fruit seems a little more baked than the 2016, with plum and prune notes combining with some Asian spices and a lick of oak. Plenty of volume on the palate with the tannins just a little firmer than the following vintage. There is plenty of concentration here, with a fine future ahead. (AH)