2013 Fuligni, Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva

Delicately floral, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva slowly awakens in the glass, coy at first, with a subtle mix of mint leaf and dried strawberry. Further coaxing brings out a seductive darkening effect, as the fruit evolves to black cherry, complicated by a whiff of incense, sage and spiced cedar. This is a model of purity, with textures of pure silk and polished red berry fruits that flood the palate. A burst of zesty acidity and sour citrus adds tension but also a sense of boundless energy. Fine-grained tannins emerge as the 2013 flexes its structural muscle, leaving a tart cranberry crunchiness and savory herbal tones to resonate. There are still many years, possibly a decade or more, of positive maturity in store for patient collectors.

Initially closed and shy, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva needs a little extra time in the glass before it starts to shine. The wine is made according to a very classic blueprint that prizes delicate primary fruit freshness, fully integrated tannins (nudged forward by Slavonian oak casks) and bright acidity. Fruit for this wine is sourced from 20-year-old vines that deliver the added extract and concentration worthy of a Riserva expression. This wine is impeccably balanced and radiant. It drinks beautifully straight out of the gate, however, it has the natural DNA to assure a graceful aging future. Some 12,000 bottles were made.

Luminous deep red. Steely aromas and flavors of redcurrant, cranberry cocktail, and sour red cherry are complicated by cinnamon and minerals, while lifted by a bright violet topnote. Fresh, precise and focused, with harmonious lively acidity providing outstanding clarity and cut extending the flavors nicely on the long, suave, refined finish.

Mid bricky red. Fragrant, still with notes of tart red fruits and dried cherries and just starting to show some more tertiary notes of leather and balsam. On the palate, superb intensity without any sense of weight or alcohol, though there is a smooth depth to the dry, resolving tannins to balance the tension and freshness in the fruit. Still has a firm grip and still a long way to go but you could drink this now with something substantial. Really persistent. (JH)

Closed nose, but then there's a good amount of leather, petrichor and dried, bitter cherry fruit to give substance and concentration on the palate. Warm, hefty style. Impressive but perhaps a bit hot. Tannic too. Oversized. (RH)