2016 Cupano, Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva

Like forbidden fruit, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva opens slowly in the glass, blowing off an initial whiff of sweet spice and pine shavings. Beneath the surface, there are grumbling depths of black cherries, tea leaves, dried roses, mocha and smoke. This fleshes out across the palate like pure silk, motivated by vibrant acidity, while potent mineral-tinged red and blue berries slowly saturate the senses. A web of fine-grained tannin remains as the 2016 flexes its structural muscle and wrangles its sweet vivid fruits. That said, nearly a minute goes by and you can still taste hints of blueberry skins and plums plus nuances of vanilla bean. Cupano made a marvelous Riserva in the 2016 vintage.

Mid ruby. Rich cherry-liqueur nose. Rich sweet cherry fruit with hints of gingerbread. Long juicy finish. Quite a heady, lush wine that is not ready by far and has the stuffing for ageing gracefully. (WS)