2015 Cupano, Brunello di Montalcino

Deep red. Broad-shouldered and deeply structured, with lively aromas of red and blue fruits complicated by flowers, Oriental herbs, blue and red berry flavors nicely framed by polished tannins. Dense and thick on the long finish, which features a repeating floral quality. I expect this to improve considerably, expanding nicely, as it ages in the cellar.

Tasting the delicious 2015 Cupano Brunello di Montalcino next to the bigger and darker Riserva is a real treat. Here I find an exotically spiced and perfumed blend of strawberry and cherry with hints of plum and white smoke. There are depths of silky textures and ripe fruits to be found along with hints of cinnamon, clove and sweet florals which amass toward the close. Its tannins are round, creating something of a creamy feel even through the finish, where sweet herbs and hints of citrus linger. This has the structure for short-term cellaring, yet it is already so easy to like.

Certified organic (Valoritalia). Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Generous, lifted nose that slowly opens up in the glass. Lush, juicy cherry fruit laced with finely grained tannins. Has a lightness of touch that defies the actual alcohol. (WS)