2008 Biserno, Toscana

The 2008 Biserno is drop-dead gorgeous. A blend of mostly Cabernet Franc, with dollops of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, the 2008 Biserno is rich, seamless and opulent, yet also beautifully balanced at the same time. A warm, open bouquet redolent of mocha, espresso, wild herbs and smoke leads to plush fruit as this harmonious, totally symmetrical wine opens up. This is a great showing.

(mainly merlot and cabernet franc, with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot; 15% alcohol): Inky purple. Brooding aromas of oak-accented dark berries, licorice and tobacco, complicated by a smoky overtone. Lush and creamy, with densely packed cassis and blackberry flavors complemented by vanilla, spice and violet nuances. The polished, noble tannins deliver structure and support to an essentially very ripe wine. There is an element of refinement here that is impressive for such a big, long wine.

This is very sexy with decadent meat, berries and spices. Cooked rhubarb. Hints of cocoa. Full body, with a racy and intense mid-palate. Racy and balanced. Long, long finish. Just coming around now.

The 2008 Biserno is the first wine in this vertical (going from youngest to oldest vintage) to show overt signs of its evolution. Based on that, we can safely give these wines a 10-year drinking window at a bare minimum. The 2008 Biserno shows faded primary fruit with more emphasis on dry spice, toast, Spanish cedar and cinnamon. The wine is aged in barrique for 18 months, and two-thirds of that oak is new. This was a very hot vintage, even more so than 2007. Those warm growing conditions are evident in the darkness, extraction and savory aromas presented here. One last observation is the prominence of Cabernet-driven aromas of medical herb and wild sage. That varietal signature is very pronounced when drinking the wine today.