2006 Biondi-Santi, Brunello di Montalcino, Riserva

This is a re-release of a wine that first hit the market some seven years ago. The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is being reintroduced to the market, with only 2,500 bottles. This is a stunning wine that absolutely merits this considerable score increase. Made when dottore Franco Biondi Santi was alive and very present in the winery, this wine shows spectacular elegance and finesse, articulated with fine aromas of forest berry, blue flower, eucalyptus and lightly barbecued smoke. The wine shows extreme Sangiovese elegance and purity, and while the wine is almost fragile in approach, it ultimately reveals more brawn, volume and staying-power than anticipated.

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva comes across as a bit reticent. It reveals lovely detail and nuance, but without the firmness of many other young vintages. Today the 2006 is quite accessible. I will be surprised if it doesn't start shutting down at some point. Regardless, the 2006 appears to be built more on finesse rather than power. Freshly cut flowers, hard candy and licorice are layered into the finish.