1997 Antinori (Pian Vigne), Brunello di Montalcino

Medium to dark garnet. Fresh, engaging nose suggests mocha, cinnamon, cedar and vanilla. Forceful entry of black cherry leads to juicy, high-toned flavors of dark berry fruits. Smooth, glossy and graceful but ultimately a wine of very good rather than outstanding weight and length. Ripely tannic finish. This property is part of Antinori far-flung wine holdings.

This sexy, up-front 1997 Brunello offers aromas of lead pencil, cedar, espresso, and black cherry liqueur. Lush and medium-bodied, with sweet tannin, and a forward personality, it's a modern-styled effort that traditionalists may feel lacks the grip and tannin normally found in Brunello. Nevertheless, it is a delicious, already accessible Brunello di Montalcino to enjoy over the next 8-10 years. Importer: Remy Amerique, New York, NY; tel. (212) 399-0200

The 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Pian delle Vigne puts on a very nice showing, only its performance is too short. The bouquet opens to generous tones of prune, crushed clove and Indian spice. Subtle renditions of balsam herb and licorice fill in the rear. The palate sees dry tannins and a short finish that leaves you expecting more. Drink: 2014-2018.