2016 Poggio Antico, Brunello di Montalcino, Altero

If you have visited the site that gives birth to this wine, it's impossible to forget the view. This is one of the only (maybe the only) vineyard in Montalcino from which you can see the twinkle of light that reflects off the Tyrrhenian Sea in the far distance. That altitude, exposure and open panorama shapes the very elegant Poggio Antico 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Altero. Specifically, the fruit comes from Il Vignone, located in the I Poggi area, at 500 meters in altitude (very high for Montalcino). Il Vignone measures just under five hectares and sees loose, well-draining soils. The wine reveals dark fruit intensity and concentration with black cherry, plum and tilled earth. There's a tangy hint of tilled earth or dried lilac as well. The character of this wine is more robust for sure, but that elegance that we saw in the classic Brunello is also present here. Production is 10,000 bottles.

Three days of cold soak prior to alcoholic fermentation of eight days, followed by three weeks of skin maceration. Aged for 30 months in French oak tonneaux of 500 litres and 25-hl Slavonian oak casks, followed by 18 months in bottle. Mid to deep ruby. Deeper and more brooding than the regular Brunello. Quite closed on the palate but this is real class in the making. Racy cherry palate with gorgeous coating tannins with amazing depth and spread. (WS)