2011 Altesino, Brunello di Montalcino

Altesino's 2011 Brunello di Montalcino opens with beguiling aromatics. Sage, licorice, menthol and sweet tobacco flesh out nicely as the wine shows off its ample, broad personality. The tannins could use another year or two to soften, but all the elements are very nicely balanced throughout. This gracious, silky Brunello will drink well for the next decade-plus.

The 2011 Brunello di Montalcino shows a very distinct personality that separates it from its peers. There's a dark, mysterious and masculine side to this wine that is evident from first impact. The bouquet offers infinite layers of black fruit, plum, spice, cumin seed and crushed clove. You get a great sense of moist earth, tobacco and forest floor. Nothing is obvious. The wine keeps you guessing sip after sip. It would benefit from more years of cellar aging, but it's really not that far off from optimal drinking.

Tasted blind. Deep ruby with orange tinges. Full and complex nose and plenty of succulent, almost rich strawberry and cherry fruit on the palate. Shows the warmth of the 2011 vintage, while remaining supple and multi-layered with crunchy tannins. Ready now. (WS)

Smoke, black cherry, slight manure character. Overripe, almost sickly edge. (RH)