2008 Roberto Voerzio, Barolo, Cerequio

Roberto Voerzio’s 2008 Barolo Cerequio is flat-out stunning. It is one of the favorites with this group, and it is easy to see why. A benchmark example of this great La Morra site, the 2008 captivates the heart and intellect with its generous, inviting fruit and seductive personality. With a little air the 2008 can be enjoyed today, but it will be even better in another handful of years. Still, on this night is superb.

The 2008 Barolo Cerequio comes across as dark, powerful and rich. Black cherries, leather, spices, licorice and tar are some of the nuances that take shape in this intense Cerequio. Here, too, the flavors are dark and brooding. With time in the glass, the Cerequio turns suave, polished and elegant, all qualities that are typical of this site, but the 2008 never fully drops its sheer muscle. The 2008 remains big, powerful and structured. A finessed finish covers every inch of the palate with small bursts of energetic dark red fruit. This is another drop-dead gorgeous wine from Roberto and Davide Voerzio. Little of the early appeal and sensuality that is typical of Cerequio is to be found in the 2008, so readers will have to be patient. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. AG