2010 La Spinetta, Barbaresco, Gallina Vursu

La Spinetta's 2010 Barbaresco Riserva Vigneto Gallina (Magnum) is still very young! Dark and sumptuous, the Gallina is a powerful wine. Ripe black cherry, dried herbs, spice, licorice and sweet new oak lend an exotic flair. The Gallina is always so interesting; it is the most understated of the three Barbarescos on release, and also the wine that ages best. The 2010 has plenty of the flamboyance of this era at La Spinetta. It will drink beautifully for another decade or more.

The 2010 Barbaresco Vigneto Gallina comes from low-yield producing old vines in Neive. The wine is immensely pleasurable and bright with beautiful aromatic intensity that shines bright from the glass. Only 900 cases are produced. This vineyard expression offers notable freshness and brightness that make it suitable for long cellar aging. This is a truly magnificent wine. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. Giorgio Rivetti has unveiled a stunning line of new wines, and a few surprises as well, from his impeccable winery and tasting room at the foot of the Grinzane Cavour castle. The line of Riserva Barbarescos and Riserva Barolo will only be bottled in magnums in the best vintages. The year 2004 is the inaugural vintage of these special releases. Giorgio purchased a beautiful estate in the Grinzane Cavour estate for making Barolo. His vineyard graces a dome-shaped hill and is planted with 55- to 60-year-old Nebbiolo vines. Importers: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale, FL; tel. (954) 530-4021; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Good medium red. Sexy aromas of redcurrant, plum, earth, herb, spices and flowers; ripe and loamy. Fatter and sweeter than the 2011 bottling, with a distinctly rounder, denser texture to the plum and earth flavors. Finishes dry and classic, with excellent length and ripe tannins that dust the front teeth.