2013 Roagna, Barbaresco, Paje Crichet

The 2013 Barbaresco Crichët Pajè brings together so many of the elements that make the Roagna wines so compelling today. In the past, Crichët Pajè was a huge, tannic wine. The 2013, on the other hand, is incredibly finessed. Sweet red cherry, rose petal, blood orange, cedar, kirsch and cinnamon are some of the many notes that grace the 2013. Sensual and silky, the 2013 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. There's real depth and substance here. What a wine.

Crichet-Pajé has been produced since 1978 but the vineyard was planted back in 1958. From this plot Roagna produces 10 to 15 hectolitres, which it releases after eight years of ageing: four years in oak, followed by concrete and bottle. This is focused on citrus leaf, dried flowers, tar and orange peel, dominated on the palate by orange and chocolate. The tannins are super-dense and velvety, with a chewy finish and tense, almost nervy acidity. Will evolve further.