2007 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Ovello Riserva

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello comes across as cool, inward and reticent. In other words, very Ovello. It is one of the most complete of these 2007s, as the freshness of the site works to counter some of the more extroverted qualities of the year. The Ovello possesses stunning depth in its fruit, expressive inner perfume and firm yet refined tannins that provide the backdrop for all of the elements to come together beautifully in the glass. The Ovello seems to combine the best qualities of the Montestefano and Montefico. The huge, building finish provides a glimpse as to what awaits those who can exercise a measure of patience. This is a stunning Barbaresco on all counts.

Good full red. Currant, smoke, menthol and a touch of oak on the nose. Smooth and sweet but at the same time vinous and youthful, with the currant and smoke flavors carrying through onto the palate. This suave, deep wine finishes with substantial, building fine-grained tannins and a touch of medicinal austerity. According to Aldo Vacca, the 2007s show an extra element of smokiness across the board that combines well with their spiciness.