2009 Chiara Boschis (Azienda Agricola E. Pira e Figli), Barolo, Mosconi

The south-facing Mosconi vineyard is known for making open, fruit-driven wines, and that is exactly the style here. Dark plums, espresso, licorice, cherries, menthol, tar and smoke are some of the many nuances that emerge as this forward, juicy Barolo shows off its considerable personality. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is simply masterful. Boschis used only 30% new barrels, but the oak still needs a few years to fully assimilate. The Mosconi now challenges the Cannubi as the most supple and approachable Barolo in the Pira range. Another few years of cellaring seems advisable as 2009 has firmed up a bit over the last few months. At times, the Mosconi comes across as a hypothetical blend of Cannubi and Via Nuova.

(from 50-year-old vines, according to Chiara Boschis): Good full red. Deep aromas of plum, red licorice, menthol and sweet butter. Fat, silky and full on the front half, with a strong element of sweet spices, then a bit more muscular on the back. This large-scaled wine finishes with substantial oak tannins and a touch of youthful dryness.