2016 Pio Cesare, Barolo, Mosconi

This is the second vintage released of this new wine from Pio Cesare, and what an elegant treat it is. The 2016 Barolo Mosconi, with fruit from Monforte d'Alba, is a toned and slender wine that shows the inner power and muscle of this corner of the appellation. The bouquet is defined by a pretty mineral note that is backed by wild berry fruit, rose petal and a dusting of crushed stone or tilled earth. I feel the tight tannins of this wine, but I also taste the elegance of the fruit that surrounds them. Only 5,000 bottles were produced. Mosconi is the second single-vineyard Barolo made by this estate after the Ornato was introduced 30 years ago.

The 2016 Barolo Mosconi shows all of the breadth and amplitude that is typical of wines from this Monforte site. Tar, licorice, rose petal, mint, incense and dried herbs all develop with time in the glass. The 2016 is a powerhouse. I would give it at least a few years in bottle.

Monforte d’Alba. Cask sample. Mid ruby with bricky tinges. Cool spice nose with cherry fruit hints. A little lighter than the 2015 Mosconi. Same suppleness but more fruit-driven and supported by grainy chewy tannins. You could almost approach this now, but the tannic structure as well as the youthful fruit deserves much more time (and this is not bottled yet). Great depth as well as long tannins. (WS)