2016 Oddero, Barolo, Villero

Intense flavors of black currant and black cherry are shaded by iron, tar and tobacco in this toned yet powerful red. This is balanced, though needs time to absorb the dense, chalky tannins. The aftertaste extends the fruit element, along with mineral and tobacco accents. Best from 2023 through 2045. 660 cases made. — BS

The Oddero family suggests tasting their single-vineyard Baroli in this order: Villero, Rocche di Castiglione, Brunate and Bussia. Starting off with the 2016 Barolo Villero, you get an open-knit but very precise expression in which the Nebbiolo grape is able to show its delicate nuances of wild cherry, rose hip, pressed violet and cola. The wine is silky and graceful. This Villero hits all the magic spots in the classic 2016 vintage. It should be exciting to chart its progression over time. ML

Black cherry, cloves, melted road tar, licorice and leather all run through Oddero's 2016 Barolo Villero. Deep on the palate with huge swaths of tannin, the Villero is a decidedly big, virile wine that is going to need time to fully come together. I imagine it will always be a powerhouse, however. The Villero is not especially elegant; the bombastic style clearly favors power over finesse - at least, it does today. Even so, there is plenty of Nebbiolo character and classic, old-school austerity.

Castiglione Falletto. Total skin maceration of 25 days. Lustrous mid ruby. Perfumed, deep and concentrated with minerally, liquorice hints. Expressive, complex fruit shot through by acidity. Almost aromatic fruit finish. Sleek and elegant but with great length and framed by savoury, chewy tannins. (WS)