2019 Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio, Barolo, Monprivato

Compared to the 2018, the 2019 Barolo Monprivato offers a more powerful nose with more nervous energy in its notes of licorice, raspberry liqueur, rosemary, and sweet earth. Ripe and powerfully structured, with a midweight feel but incredible intensity and length, it has a great level of completeness, with an earthy drive and ripe tannins that hold through its long finish. Drink 2025-2055.

The 2019 Barolo Monprivato is a tightly wound, classically austere wine from the Mascarello family. Vibrant acids and beams of tannin cut through a core of red-toned fruit, orange peel, white pepper and flowers. Readers should be in no rush to open the 2019, as it is pretty reticent. Even so, there's tons of energy here. I have had the 2019 twice so far. The 2019 is one of the best Monprivatos in recent memory, although I note that a second bottle was quite a bit more backward than this one.

Castiglione Falletto. Palish ruby. Beautifully perfumed nose and gorgeous pure raspberry and tannins to suck on. Stunning. (WS)