2012 Bartolo Mascarello, Barolo

Incredibly open and complex with cedar, dried roses, plums and strawberries. Some toffee, too. Medium to full body, with fabulously polished tannins that give a fine, creamy texture, yet driven and energetic. Love the finish. Drink now.

Freshly cut flowers, mint, raspberry and red stone fruits all lift from the glass in the Maria-Theresa Mascarello's 2012 Barolo. Silky, open-knit and gracious, the 2012 is surprisingly delicious today. This is a decidedly mid-weight, approachable Barolo that is already quite open and delicious. Best of all, the 2012 won't need years to come together. Mascarello fans should buy the 2012 to drink over the near and medium-term, while some of the more structured vintages age in the cellar. A model of grace and finesse, the 2012 is striking in its beauty, even if it clearly doesn't have the depth or multi-dimensional personality of the very best years.

A truly traditional Barolo. Grapes from Cannubi, San Lorenzo, Ruè and Rocche dell'Annunziata are co-fermented then aged in large Slavonian oak casks for 30 months. In 2012 the Ruè vineyard was hit by hail, reducing production (usually 15,000-20,000 bottles) by 20%. Exquisite aromas of anise, precise strawberry, raspberry and rose reveal themselves one by one. In the mouth, delicate flavours are framed by assertive tannins, with an exotic mix of spice lingering on the finish.

The Bartolo Mascarello 2012 Barolo is a beautiful wine that is endowed by a deep sense of purity and clarity. What else should you expect from the producer whose name is forever linked to the definition of traditional Barolo? The wine is vibrant and elegant with an evident sense of inner grace that translates to both the nose and the mouthfeel. Silky and polished, the wine reveals delicate tones of wild rose, forest berry, licorice, dried ginger and cola. Maria Teresa Mascarello used the word "fragile" to describe this vintage and I think it is a poetically appropriate term for this wine.

A blend from Cannubi, San Lorenzo, Rué and Rocche (La Morra). Bottled in July 2015. Mid ruby with orange tinges. Beautiful, cool, wild strawberry with a hint of shoe polish. Elegant and vibrant and balanced. Beautifully tactile and gripping yet polished. (WS)

Palish ruby with orange tinges. Sweet fruit with a savoury edge. Elegant palate weight and supple fruit. A tiny bit austere on the finish, but matches the fruit beautifully. (WS)