2010 Marcarini, Barolo, La Serra

The 2010 Barolo La Serra shows some ripeness with obvious tones of raspberry and a touch of dried strawberry. Beyond the fruit tones are multiple levels of exotic spice and licorice with tarry notes of road pavement and crushed stone at the back. The finish is evolved, dark and powerful. Drink: 2016-2026. Importer: Empson USA, www.empsonusa.com

With its firm, chalky tannins and pure energy, Marcarini's 2010 Barolo La Serra is a classic wine from this high-altitude site. Small red stone fruits, mint, crushed flowers, tangerine and cinnamon lift from the glass in an ethereal, perfumed Barolo built on mid-weight wiriness and energy. Readers will have to give the 2010 at least a few years for the tannins to soften. La Serra is often a bit austere when young, as is the case with the 2010.

Bright red. Much vibrant on the nose than the 2009 version, offering fruit-driven aromas of dark cherry, raspberry and flowers. Then fresh but tight, even a bit lean, in the mouth, with an herbal quality and slightly drying tannins giving the wine an edgy quality. Finishes medicinal and a bit skinny. Very closed today but I don't get an impression of full ripeness.

Dark crimson. Very elegant and perfumed. Gentler and softer than some but very delicate and insinuating. Firm and convincing. But not chock full of tannin. Fruit in ascendant. (JR)